On mid-summer's night, under gobs of mosquito net, in our tree-top tent, with civet cats and a honey badger stomping and snorfling below, and the Southen Cross wheeling above, here are some things we've learned:
1. Elephnts are as beautiful as you thought they would be.
2. Giraffes run in slow motion with schools of impala and reed buck (who bounce). In sun and storm, everything seems submerged in the Uluguru hills.
3. At 2 a.m., the pied crow in the garden will call, "Baaark Baaark Baaark Baaark" until 3 a.m. when you and your husband in a towel go out and throw cashews at him, which wakes up the dogs.
4. African nights are noisy.
5. African moonlight is blue.
6. On the bus, offer your lap to people looking for a place to put their child, or rice sacks, but not the transmissions or sacks of fish.
7. If you film them, poachers will fuss and bang on the windows. "Wei-Wei" means "Hey you."